Wednesday morning, we’re at the Giro d’Italia, it’s 09:55 and on the ‘Milano by-pass’ the average speed is around 10 mph.
You only think you’ve seen traffic jams ’til you come to Northern Italy.
And it’s not helped by the fact that everyone thinks that it’s their private fiefdom; the standard of driving is dire.
We arrived late on the Monday rest day and after much messing around at the airport deciphered that our hire car was through an agency, so we had to tour the car hire offices ’til we got the right one.
Fortunately the chap on the ‘Firefly’ desk had spent time working for IBM at Greenock and was able to practice his Scots on us, his ‘ye awrite, Big Man?’ was practically flawless.
The hotel was sterile but the breakfast was nice and we spent yesterday morning getting our credentials and just finding the ‘Giro vibe.’
And remembering the foibles of Italian life – you don’t go to the back of a queue if you’re Italian, you slide in front of the idiot Scotsmen ’til they say; ‘scusa!’
And chemists don’t sell disposable razors; you only get those in super markets – and that’s why I look like Ned Kelly.
But the sun is out, the coffee is smooth and you’re never far from a Gazzetta.
Not the decaffeinated, slimmed down UK version but the full Monty, colour edition – Tuesday’s was the rest day issue featuring big interviews with Scarponi and Nibali.
Stage 16 was a hard one to call, a big climb early, not too savage for much of the rest of the day but a ‘video nasty’ in the finale which was must to tough for the pure sprinters.
We set up camp on the climb – the Andrate – at the beer tent to watch the comings and goings.
Despite it being a Tuesday afternoon, the Tifosi were out in force and the beer was flowing well.
Needless to say, we had to have one, or two…
But we “passed” on the burgers – for once in our careers we’d made the finish town Press Centre Buffet and topped up on ham, cheese, vegetable lasagne, fruit salad and beautiful sweet, sparkling wine.
If you were of a mind you could graze the buffet and then slump down in front of the press centre big screen TV monitors, every day – and that could be your Giro.
And is the way, for many journos.
Not us though, you have to be ‘out there’ on the percorso.
There was a big screen monitor in our beer tent and it was apparent that the break would fail – there was no co-operation, they were all too busy attacking each other.
By the time the race reached us – one kilometre from the third category Montagne points line – it was the ‘Bigs’ at the head.
Nibali looks more and more like a man in charge – cool, calm, collected.
Scarponi, Uran and Evans were there but don’t have the aura that the Sicilian does.
As the race previews said, it was always going to be tough to call the winner; Intxausti would have been on long odds in the morning.
But win he did, to give Movistar their third stage win of the race.
And Intxausti is ninth – but it’s entirely feasible he could go top six; but even if he doesn’t, the Giro has been a triumph for the Spanish team.
Big loser was Santambrogio, he was dropped on the Andrate and had to chase all the way home, fluo yellow jersey flapping in the breeze.
A familiar – to us – but anonymous face to the Tifosi, was that of Iljo Keisse. From ‘Kuipke King’ to ‘gruppetto Joe’ it’s not all glamour, even if you do wear a QuickStep jersey.
Two miles to Carravaggio, birthplace of the painter of the same name and the start for Stage 17.
The Giro Bible lists, ‘bread of the dead‘ as one of the local delicacies – we might pass on that one…
ciao, ciao.
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Result - Giro d'Italia 2013 - Stage 16: Valloire - Ivrea 238km
Stage Result
2 Tanel Kangert (Est) Astana Pro Team
3 Przemyslaw Niemiec (Pol) Lampre-Merida
4 Ramunas Navardauskas (Ltu) Garmin-Sharp 0:00:14
5 Cadel Evans (Aus) BMC Racing Team
6 Franco Pellizotti (Ita) Androni Giocattoli
7 Michele Scarponi (Ita) Lampre-Merida
8 Rafal Majka (Pol) Team Saxo-Tinkoff
9 José Herrada Lopez (Spa) Movistar Team
10 Carlos Alberto Betancur Gomez (Col) Ag2R La Mondiale
11 Rigoberto Uran Uran (Col) Sky Procycling
12 Vincenzo Nibali (Ita) Astana Pro Team
13 Samuel Sanchez Gonzalez (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi
14 Stefano Pirazzi (Ita) Bardiani Valvole-CSF Inox
15 Fabio Aru (Ita) Astana Pro Team
16 Fabio Andres Duarte Arevalo (Col) Colombia 0:00:20
17 Robert Gesink (Ned) Blanco Pro Cycling Team 0:00:23
18 Francesco Manuel Bongiorno (Ita) Bardiani Valvole-CSF Inox 0:01:51
19 Hubert Dupont (Fra) Ag2R La Mondiale
20 Fabio Felline (Ita) Androni Giocattoli
21 Diego Rosa (Ita) Androni Giocattoli
22 Giovanni Visconti (Ita) Movistar Team
23 Yury Trofimov (Rus) Katusha
24 Egoi Martinez De Esteban (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi
25 Wilco Kelderman (Ned) Blanco Pro Cycling Team
26 Robert Kiserlovski (Cro) RadioShack Leopard
27 Gorka Verdugo Marcotegui (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi
28 Domenico Pozzovivo (Ita) Ag2R La Mondiale
29 Mauro Santambrogio (Ita) Vini Fantini-Selle Italia 0:02:24
30 Christian Knees (Ger) Sky Procycling
31 Dario Cataldo (Ita) Sky Procycling
32 Sergio Luis Henao Montoya (Col) Sky Procycling
33 Valerio Agnoli (Ita) Astana Pro Team
34 Danny Pate (USA) Sky Procycling
35 Juan Manuel Garate (Spa) Blanco Pro Cycling Team
36 Ivan Santaromita (Ita) BMC Racing Team
37 Thomas Damuseau (Fra) Team Argos-Shimano
38 Francis Mourey (Fra) FDJ
39 Evgeny Petrov (Rus) Team Saxo-Tinkoff
40 Oscar Gatto (Ita) Vini Fantini-Selle Italia 0:02:52
41 Miguel Angel Rubiano Chavez (Col) Androni Giocattoli 0:03:31
42 Vladimir Karpets (Rus) Movistar Team
43 Petr Ignatenko (Rus) Katusha
44 Koen De Kort (Ned) Team Argos-Shimano
45 Francis De Greef (Bel) Lotto Belisol
46 Jorge Azanza Soto (Spa) Euskaltel-Euskadi
47 Stef Clement (Ned) Blanco Pro Cycling Team 0:04:01
48 Steven Kruijswijk (Ned) Blanco Pro Cycling Team
49 Bruno Pires (Por) Team Saxo-Tinkoff
50 Rob Ruijgh (Ned) Vacansoleil-DCM Pro Cycling Team
51 Kenny Dehaes (Bel) Lotto Belisol
52 Michal Golas (Pol) Omega Pharma-Quick Step
53 Darwin Atapuma Hurtado (Col) Colombia
54 Sacha Modolo (Ita) Bardiani Valvole-CSF Inox
55 Giampaolo Caruso (Ita) Katusha 0:05:34
56 Jackson Rodriguez (Ven) Androni Giocattoli 0:06:20
57 Paolo Longo Borghini (Ita) Cannondale Pro Cycling 0:06:31
58 Sonny Colbrelli (Ita) Bardiani Valvole-CSF Inox
59 Ben Gastauer (Lux) Ag2R La Mondiale
60 Kristijan Durasek (Cro) Lampre-Merida
61 Francisco